We have Flaps

Over the last couple days I worked on the flap egress holes..  The egress holes are holes right through the bottom of the fuse where the flap pushrods go.  I started by just mounting the flap bolt/bearing without the pushrod, then found where it contacted the fuse and trimmed to fit.   Basically this takes you up the side of the fuse a bit and underneath.  Vans marks places where this hole starts too which helps.  Once the bearing was clear, I lowered the flaps all the way to see where the rod ended up.  Cut the hole to that location using my dremel and a small sanding drum... Then wouldn't you know it after about 2 hours on the first side, and a third hour on the second side I have flaps.  They work great, up, down, up, down..  Bekah even likes them.  ;-)

Wing Incidence Complete

After you set the incidence and sweep on the wings, you lock it in by drilling a bolt hole in the rear spar of each wing.  To set the wings I used 4 plumb bobs and string along the leading edge to ensure tip to tip they were straight.  With only one mount and removal of the wings I was able to trim the rear spar up enough to get the sweep what seemed perfect to me.  I confirmed by measuring and getting the exact same measurement on each side from a common point on the tail.   I don't think I can do anything more to ensure the wings are straight.

Then I used a bubble level and measured the incidence on each wing  from tip to tail with a 3 inch riser off the rear spar.  I don't have any pics, but the fuse had already been leveled, so with the spacer on the rear spar and the level on the front spar, I moved the aft part of the wing up and down until the wing was level.  So basically the rear of the wing is 3 inches lower than the main spar, when the fuselage is level.  Its most important that both wings are even and level, so I measured this several times.  With both wings leveled out I was finally set to drill the rear spar retaining holes.

These holes are arguably the most important holes to drill correctly on the entire build.  Edge distance is critical as well as a straight clean hole.   I used an undersized reamer and stepped up to it with various drill sizes, and took about 2 hours to get the hole thing done.   I am pretty darn confident that I nailed it.. At least I am happy with the outcome and will trust this to hold on the aft portion of my wings.  ;-)

Also, before I did this I installed the flaps to ensure they were even on the fuse, they looked good at this incidence, also I noticed that with the hardware bolts in the main spar attach holes, there was about 1/4 inch slop out at the wingtip.  Something no builders have talked about.   However, the slop was even and consistent on both sides and only in the up/down direction, not for/aft or longitudinally..   I am good here, but just something for other builders to note.

Mated the Wings ! - Kinda like building a ship in a bottle...

I spent the last couple days rearranging the garage so that I could get the wings mounted for the first time.  In building, you need to mate the wings a couple times about midway in the build to set the sweep and incidence, drill the fairings, drill the flap holes, drill the fuel tank bracket, and finish the plumbing for the fuel line and vent..    So all in all I will have the wings on for a couple weeks.  This is the first time in the build that Bekah will need to park her car outside for a while and I am bummed that it is December, but the time of year can’t be planned.

Anyway, I organized the garage and measured everything out, looks like it will fit..   I lubed up the spar and drift pins with Boe Lube, filed an ever so slight bevel in the spar per the directions.  Got the wings prepped by removing the flaps and anchoring the ailerons..  Then had a fellow builder and Bekah help slowly slide the wings  into the fuse.  It went really well and faster than I thought.   The whole process after the prep was done only took about 30 mins I assume.

Looks awesome !  I can’t  believe how exciting this moment was to see the plane coming together in my garage..  Kind of like a ship in a bottle, but very cool just the same.  Once the wings were mounted I put some plumb bobs over the leading edge at the root and tip and used them to get an idea of the “sweep” of the wings..  Its only about 1/8 inch forward sweep, and will need to trim a small amount off the rear spar attach point to correct this.  All builders have to do this, but to see how much needed to be trimmed, I had to mount the wings first.   Its the forward bar on the fuselage spar where it interferes with the wing rib flange.   Quite common..  Tomorrow they will come off and I will trim it all up then get them back on to set the incidence..   Looking good ! !

Stepped away from the build but got the engine ordered

The past couple weeks have been a blast..  Bekah and I stepped away from everything and enjoyed ourselves in Hawaii..   A good time for me to prove to the world that I do get away from work and the airplane for the important times.  We had our 5th Anniversary in Hawaii..  It was great...

I completely stepped away from the airplane..  But that point might be argued, due to the Dynon, PSE, and Vertical Power Install Manuals that I had printed and ready to review during the trip.  Bekah read her books while I freshened up on my install intelligence..  Worked great..   Also, I was able to get the engine ordered from Aero Sport Power..  I won't tell you the cost of this thing, but I can assure you it is more than you think.   Probably about 3-4 times more than you think.   Maybe even more than that..  Those who are building know what I am talking about..

Below are the Specs..  It should be here in late Jan.

Aero Sport Power Ltd. New IO-375 (195 HP) Horizontal Induction Engine Includes:

Superior Cylinders with standard 8.0 to 1 compression ratio, One Slick Magneto and Harness with Light speed Plasma II + Crank Triggered Electronic Ignition, Spark Plugs, Sky-Tec Light Weight Inline Starter, Plane Power 60 Amp Alternator, Precision Silver Hawk Fuel Injection, Fuel Pump, Camshaft and Lifters, Superior Cold Air Horizontal Induction Sump, Connecting Rods, ECI Crankshaft, Dynafocal Type 1 Crankcase, Ring Gear, Inner Cylinder Baffles, Dipstick and Tube, 90 Degree Spin on Oil Filter Adapter and Vacuum Pump Adapter Housing.  Engine to be painted yellow, cylinder black bases and gold alodined fins.  Inverted oil modifications.

Constant Speed (M1S) Outright

Using Superior Components with Roller Lifters

Battery Box, Master/Starter Relays

Last night I drilled more holes in the firewall and installed the battery box and relays.  I actually completed everything I had planned outside of the copper bar that connects the two relays.  This copper bar isn't included in the Firewall Forward kit which is frustrating so I will need to order separate.   Also, I cheated a bit and painted the internal components black, where most builders paint these the same as the firewall.   I think in my case the black looks good with the other sandstone color and part of my plan is "sporty/industrial" if that is such a theme..  My internal nutplates and stiffeners fit that theme well.  ;-).  Also, just for those who are new to this, the Relays connect direct to the battery and are really just huge switches that can carry tons of load which would melt smaller switches.  These big switches are activated by smaller switches on the panel.

Firewall Forward Kit is here

I received the firewall forward kit from Vans.  I basically ordered the standard kit for the IO-360 with Horizontal induction, but pulled the Governor, Oil Cooler, Alternator, Exhaust and a few other small dollar items out since I am going somewhat custom on these items..  This cut the cost in half and of course made it possible to ship in a much smaller container.  The kit has much of the fuel/oil line and mounting items for the engine.  Also the battery tray which is the first thing I put together.  I also did some additional wire runs for the Aileron Trim, and as well started to look at the Starter and Master solenoid..  These will be mounted to the firewall in the next couple days.

Firewall Penetrations and Heat Selector Box

While I wait for some shipments, I took the time to work on some odds and ends on the firewall.  First the two upper holes with the red fire sleeve are for wire pass throughs.  Basically on the right will be the high power wires and on the left will be the engine sensor wires.  For all the holes I used new hole saws from Lowes.  They worked well and the 1 1/8 inch saw cut 5 holes and can still go for more.  The firewall is made of stainless steel and is quite sharp and hard to cut so I am glad these hole saws worked well.  It was a bit tricky I actually used a fairly fast speed and boe-lube to make it cut fairly cleanly.   All the holes came out well.  These pass throughs are about 1 inch above the top firewall cross angle and 1.75 inches outside of the upper ribs.  These spots should work out with no conflicts.

The next stepw as 3 cable pass throughs that will be for the Mixture, Prop Speed, and Throttle.  These were placed per the plans and came out well.  The throttle is the one by the heater box down low on the firewall.

Finally I cut the 2 inch hole for the heatbox.  I was worried about this one, but other than lots of noise, smoke and sharp edges it went really well.   I just used emory cloth to clean up the edges and dull the sharpness..  On all the holes I can run my fingers without risk of cut, that is effectively deburred.

I also hooked up the cable for the heater box and worked it a few times.  Functions smoothly.